Read on to find out how parquet blocks are installed. Start to finish!

 

As with wide plank flooring, before laying the floor the installer mat need to undercut the bottom of the door-frames, wardrobe, kitchen plinths etc, to allow for the planks to fit under. Doors may also need to be undercut as the new floor may end up higher than the original one. 

 

Determining Pattern Direction. 

 

Although Herringbone or brick patterned flooring can be installed from any point in the room, we recommend considering architectural feature (main entranceway, wall with window, fireplace) and the longest section within a room before deciding on the pattern direction. The information in this blog post refers mainly to installation based on the Herringbone pattern as it is more complex. 

 

Installing Guidelines.

 

Using a chalk line, the installer should mark a guideline in the centre of the room to indicate the centre of the pattern then mark one line on either side of the centre line. These lines will provide a guide through laying the upper corners of the boards. Additional parallel guidelines across the entire floor surface and can be marked if required to help with subsequent rows. 

 

Installing a Backer-Board

 

The installer can use a piece of plywood to make a backer board that will assist in starting the first few rows of boards. The board should be cut perfectly square, at approximately 5mm shorter than the length of the block (i.e 345mm x345mm plywood backer board for 350mm long blocks). Installation should begin in the centre of the room, aligning two opposite corners of the backer board with the guideline, securing it to the subfloor. A block should then be placed on each side of the backer board to ensure measurement accuracy, then removed. 

 

Applying Adhesive.

 

For optimal adhesive application, a flexible adhesive for wood locks should be used and the trowel should be worked at 45* angle so the adhesive left on the floor by trowel teeth is just the right amount. Adhesive should only be applied to surfaces that can be reasonably covered in under an hour.

 

Installing The First Line.

 

At this stage the installer should carefully select the boards, setting aside any with imperfections or high colour variation got less visible areas of the floor. To install the boards the installer will be required to align the right and left corners with the guidelines while pressing the board down into the adhesive with a slight sliding movement. If installing blocks with a tongue and groove, the tongue side should be laid against the backer board. It is important to keep adhesive out of the board grooves and side to ensure perfect fit with adjacent board tongue.

 

IT IS THE DUTY OF THE INSTALLER/CLIENT TO JUDGE THE SUITABILITY OF ANY PIECE FOR PLACEMENT IN A CONSPICUOUS AREA OF A ROOM.

 

Securing The Blocks.

 

If installing over a timber subfloor, in addition to the adhesive the blocks should be manually fixed to the subfloor. If laying 10mm or thinner overlay blocks, secure the blocks with four headless pins, one on each of the surface corners. For thicker tongue-and-groove blocks, nail down the first line to secure the floor properly. Proceed the same way with subsequent blocks until you are ready to cut the last board in the row. If you are installing a boarder, make sure it is installed before cutting the last row. Always leave an expansion gap between the wall and the end of the last board in each row. Make sure to check alignment every row to ensure that the blocks are still square. 

 

Post Installation.

 

Once the floor is fitted, the installer should clean up and remove any rubbish related to the installation. For parquet or wide unfinished planks the installers should now carefully sand and / or seal the floor using specialists tools and finishes, depending on the type of flooring and required finish.

 

PRE-FINISHED FLOORS ARE FACTORY FINISHED AND MAY NOT BE SUITABLE TO RECEIVE AND ADDITIONAL FINISH ON SITE SO PLEASE CHECK WITH US PRIOR TO APPLICATION.

 

If additional building work is to be carried out or heavy furniture is fitted and / or moved around, we would recommend laying a 3mm hardboard, taped at connections on top of the new floor. This will help protect against tools and equipment accidentally dropping, painting splashes and scratches due to the furniture movement etc. Please note this may not protect against brick-dust or other building dust reaching the floor and some maintenance work may be required to store the floors lustre if a significant amount of work has taken place post installation. 

 

FLOORS EXPOSED TO BRICK OR OTHER BUILDING/RENOVATING DUST MAY LOOSE LUSTRE AND REQUIRE A MAINTENANCE FINISH TO BE APPLIED FOLLOWING WORKS. 

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